Selection of a groomer should be done with at least as much care as choice of a barber or hair stylist, for you must be pleased with the results of the “haircut” and the dog must be treated with care while at the shop.

Many veterinarians have incorporated grooming into their clinics, so you may start there. If your veterinarian is not associated with a groomer, he may have a list of recommended groomers. Other sources of recommendations include friends who own pets, boarding kennels that don’t have their own grooming service, pet supply stores, shelters, and purebred breeders.

If you own a Poodle or a terrier, the selection may be a bit more difficult, for these breeds have special grooming requirements that take more time and expertise.

After getting some recommendations, make a few telephone calls and ask questions about services and costs, pick-up and delivery, and use of tranquilizers to calm the dog. Most groomers will not use tranquilizers; however they will handle a dog that has been tranquilized by the veterinarian or owner if they know that the drug has been given. If your dog is geriatric or has a chronic medical problem, ask about special handling.

Visit the groomers who answered your questions without the dog. Make sure the shop is well-lit, that the groomer and assistants handle the dogs gently, that old or arthritic dogs are treated with special consideration, and that the shampoos and flea and tick products meet your needs.

If the shop is part of a boarding kennel, find out what vaccinations the kennel requires. If routine vaccinations, including Bordatella, are not required, be aware that Cactus may bring home more than a new hairdo.

Dog nails have a quick that can be seen as a darkening of light-colored nails but is invisible on dark nails. The quick has a nerve and blood supply; nicking the quick not only hurts the dog, it causes profuse bleeding, so keep a quick stop product on hand or use flour or cornstarch to stem the tide.

Include an examination of the dog’s feet into a grooming session to make sure there is nothing stuck between the pads. Seeds from some grasses can stab into the pad, pebbles can get stuck, chemicals used on lawns can burn, and fungus can cause irritation, which lads to licking, which can lead to hot spots and infection.

A home-grooming session can be a boon to the dog-owner relationship. Dogs naturally groom each other to reinforce pack behavior and show subordination., and you can take advantage of this behavior. Spend 10-20 minutes every day or two, depending on the dog and the season of the year, and you’ll increase the bond with your pet immeasurably along with insuring that you’ll keep his skin and coat healthy and be aware of any subtle changes in condition.

Grooming is essential for healthy skin, not so much for keeping it clean, but for making the owner aware of any problems that may be developing. Flea allergies can cause severe skin problems, so daily examination of the dog during flea season is a must. Contact allergies can also cause skin to break out. Irritated skin leads to scratching, which can open the skin to staphylococcus infections. An ounce of prevention is definitely worth a pound of cure for the dog and the pocketbook the antibiotics for skin infections are among the most expensive medications, and the cost of treatment can be dollars a day for a couple of weeks or longer.

Skin irritations and infections can crop up overnight, so keep a close eye on the situation. Groom daily for fleas and ticks if Lad has had a problem. Use a fine-toothed comb to check for fleas, then flick the tiny insects into a container of warm, soapy water. Remove ticks with protected fingers and drop in a vial of alcohol. Treat the house for fleas as well; modern controls for these pests use genetically altered natural insecticides, growth inhibitors, and drying agents that are both environmentally friendly and less toxic to people and pets.

For dogs that get bathed more than once a month, aloe-based shampoos and coat conditioners and foods and supplements with Omega fatty acids help maintain coat oils and skin health.

Before bathing, clear any mats or tangles from Ginger’s coat.
Teach her to stand in the tub, then add warm or tepid water.
Soak her to the skin, lather, then rinse thoroughly to prevent dull, sticky coat and dry skin.
Take care to keep water and soap out of her eyes and ears and clean her face and the insides of her ears with a sponge or washcloth.
Daily examination
Even if Ginger doesn’t need daily grooming, check her thoroughly to make sure she has no cuts, sores, fleas, rashes, bumps, ticks, or hitchhikers in her coat or dirt in her ears. Remove fleas with a fine-toothed comb and drop them into a container of soapy water. Remove embedded ticks with tweezers or protected fingers and drop them in a vial of alcohol. (Grasp the tick body, rock it back and forth, then pull firmly.) Carefully remove vegetative matter such as grass awns, seed casings, or thorny twigs with fingers or comb.

During this daily exam, check Ginger’s feet and ears, look at her teeth, and feel for cuts or tumors.

Shedding
Dog hair grows and dies just as human hair does. Some dogs ?particularly hard-coated terriers and Poodles ?hang on to their dead hair, thus requiring special grooming to remove it. Other dogs give it up quite readily, all over the house. Double-coated dogs generally drop their soft undercoats twice a year and lose their guard hairs once a year, although some individual dogs might shed constantly or only every 10-12 months. Shedding can take anywhere from three weeks to two months. A warm bath helps accelerate the process and daily (or twice-daily) grooming can help control clouds of hair that scurry into corners and under furniture.

Shedding is controlled by hormonal changes that are tied to photoperiod (day length) and is influenced by level of nutrition and general state of health. In addition to natural biennial shedding, a dog may drop its coat after surgery, x-rays under anesthesia, and whelping puppies.

Double-coated dogs that shed heavily are Akita, Alaskan Malamute, Keeshond, Siberian Husky, Samoyed, Norwegian Elkhound, Collie, Great Pyrenees, Kuvasz, Newfoundland, St. Bernard, English Toy Spaniel, Pomeranian, Belgian Sheepdog, Belgian Malinois, Belgian Tervuren, Australian Shepherd, German Shepherd, Smooth Collie, Shetland Sheepdog, and American Eskimo. The Dalmatian sheds constantly, and many dogs shed a moderate amount of hair.

Owners should be aware before purchase that a long-coated dog, purebred or mixed, will require grooming throughout its life. If the inclination to groom or the time to do so are not part of the plan, provisions should be made for professional coat care for the dog. Otherwise, a dog that can do with a lick and a promise is a better choice as a family pet.

Grooming provides bonding time. In the wild, wolves and other canines groom each other as part of the social interaction of the pack or family group. Dog incisors (the front teeth) are an effective comb; the little nibbles they etch on the bodies of pack mates stimulate the skin and have a calming effect. Puppy owners can also use grooming as pleasurable time with their new family member.

Dog owners did not realize that their dog should be combed frequently and completely to prevent kinks and knots caused by intertwining of hairs or by dirt, grit, or vegetative matter in the coat. Mats can pull tender skin and cause pain and lead to hot spots or wounds to irritated skin and eventual infection, general skin outbreaks, or fungus or insect invasion.

Shaving may be the only solution for felted mats, but it must be done carefully to avoid nicking the dog or further irritating already inflamed skin.

Breeds that need frequent grooming to prevent mats and keep their coats healthy include Cocker Spaniel, Afghan Hound, Otterhound, Bernese Mountain Dog, Great Pyrenees, Newfoundland, Samoyed, long-coated St. Bernard, Maltese, English Toy Spaniel, Pomeranian, Shih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier, Silky Terrier, Australian Terrier, Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, Bichon Fris? Chow Chow, Keeshond, Tibetan Spaniel, Tibetan Terrier, Finnish Spitz, American Eskimo, Bearded Collie, Belgian Tervuren, Old English Sheepdog, Collie, Briard, and Shetland Sheepdog.

However, all dogs need some grooming. Although they are unlikely to develop mats or tangles ?except around the ears or on the feathered legs of some breeds ?medium-coated and short-coated dogs do need periodic grooming to keep coats and skin healthy. Grooming during shedding helps move the process along, lessen the hairy tumbleweeds in the family room, and encourage the growth of new coat.

Brutus has short hair that drops off where he sleeps.

Freckles generously spreads her Dalmatian hairs wherever she travels, all day, all week, all year.

Long-coated Lad is matted to the skin, his hair twisted into thick felt pads, his tender hide raw and fleabitten.

Each of these situations could be helped by regular grooming sessions with the family pet.

“Grooming” conjures up pictures of expensive salons for poodles or Shih Tzus or images of the prestigious Westminster Kennel Club dog show. The family Sassy or Freckles or Lad certainly doesn’t need fancy haircuts or expensive baths with hot oil treatments. However, failing to groom the dog is akin to neglecting to comb a child’s hair and wash behind his ears.

A long-coated dog should have her hair brushed and combed several times each week. A double-coated dog should have dead hair combed from the coat to hasten shedding and prevent hairy tumbleweeds from infesting the house. Even a short-coated dog should be brushed or rubbed down a couple of times a week to keep skin and coat healthy.

Much grooming can be done at home. A brush suitable for the dog’s particular coat; a fine-toothed comb for soft, silky hair and flea control; a rubber mitt or coarse washcloth for short coats are minimal tools necessary for the job. Owners who can manage may also want a pair of clippers for trimming dog toenails.

The first step in home grooming is to teach the dog to accept the attention. The best strategy is to start when the pet is a puppy, teaching him to accept the handling of all his body parts and to stand and lie on his side by command. Use hands, a soft brush, or a coarse washcloth to groom a puppy. If the puppy has a tough time staying still, place a mat on the kitchen table for traction and work with the pup on the mat.

If the pup has grown up ungroomed, he can still be taught to stand or lie still and accept this necessary attention. As with any training effort, you will often need more patience to teach shy or fearful dogs than confident or dominant dogs.

When grooming a dog with a tangled coat, work gently to avoid irritating the skin. Comb the outside of the tangle, gently progressing towards the skin, just as you would comb a child’s snarled tresses. If the coat is severely tangled or matted, work in short sessions and praise the dog frequently for accepting the sometimes irritating or painful combing. Or consider taking the pooch to a professional for an evaluation of his condition and possible clipping.

Dogs may shed dead hairs continuously, particularly in dry winter household heat. Double-coated dogs generally shed massive amounts of hair twice a year. Undercoat shedding often begins on the haunches and proceeds forward until the entire coat has molted. You may notice a dullness to the hair before the tufts begin to emerge from the coat. Full shedding can take a month or more, particularly in the heavy coated breeds.

Thinking about getting pet insurance? Here are few things you need to know.

Pricing

Pet insurance premiums range from $5 to $75 a month, the average plan is $25-$30 a month. This amount can vary greatly depending on:

• Breed
• Age
• Coverage

Policies usually cover illness and accidents with more inclusive packages covering regular checkups and vaccines.

Sign up early

Plan ahead and save money in the long run. It’s best for your pet and for your pocketbook to sign up early, before your pet gets sick. Insurance companies generally exclude preexisting conditions, no prior illnesses also gives you more options when shopping for plans.

Save up

It’s still a good idea to save. Pet owners pay vet bills up front first and are then reimbursed by the insurance company. Companies will generally pay about 80 percent of the bill after a deductible.

Alternatives

There are alternatives. Some vets offer a prepaid health plan, which cover certain procedures at a discounted rate throughout the year. A few auto insurance companies will also cover pets in car accidents. Membership in Pet Assure gives you a discounted bill at a network of participating vets and animal hospitals.

So you’ve decided to get pet insurance, now what?

Make sure you do your research. There used to be just a few companies offering insurance but now there are many options. Visit company websites to see the different plans they offer and compare plans based on benefits, co-payments and deductibles. Read reviews and opinions on the web from more than one source to find the plan that is right for your pet.

Most of people have their own dogs as the pets. And many dog owners know the facts: dogs have a much great ability to see in the dark. But few of them know what do dogs see? In fact, dogs see the world very differently to humans. Their eyesight has evolved to allow them to see better than us in certain conditions and less than in others. So what dogs can & can’t see? I hope the followings can help you to know more about your dog vision.

Dogs can see four times better than humans in the dark

Because of its history as a predator, the dog’s visual system is designed to operate at its best in low lighting. As with humans their retinas are made up of a mixture of rod and cone photoreceptors, but with the emphasis more on rods, which work much better in dim light. Cones control colour vision and require bright light. As a result of this, dogs need only about one quarter of the light that humans do to see things at night.

Dog can see the range of colours made up of yellows and blues

Dogs can not see the range of colours that humans do. But dogs aren’t colorur blind. A study of dogs concluded that they see a range of colours predominantly made up of yellows and blues. So rather than a rainbow of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet, dogs see an arc of very dark grey, dark yellow or brown, light yellow, gray, light blue and dark blue. When presented with different shades of grey, dogs are only about half as good as humans at telling the difference between them.

Dogs can see flickering lights at a high frequency

Unlike humans, for whom flashing lights blend into one at a frequency of between 50 and 60 Hz, dogs can keep seeing flickering up to a frequency of 70 Hz. This is why dogs don’t always show much interests in television, which – at least, in its pre-digital form – consisted of a series of fast-moving lines. What appeared to us as a steady stream of images appears to them as little more than a rapidly flickering collection of shapes and lights.

Dogs can’t see far away

Dogs have, on average, 20-75 vision, that is they can only see from a distance of 20 feet fine details that a person with good eyesight can see from 75 feet away. They would not pass a driving test with such poor eyesight.

Dogs can’t see the details behind their heads

Dogs have a large blind spot behind their heads.The size of this depends on the size of the dog’s head and so varies enormously from breed to breed. While the blind spot in a narrow-headed Borzoi is only 70 degrees, in the wider-headed Pekingese it is140 degrees, leaving them much more vulnerable to attacks from behind.

Dogs can’t see “Depth of field”

Dogs also don’t have great “depth of field”  to their vision. Because they have such large pupils, when they look at things that are distant they only see the objects in the centre of the image in focus. Everything else in the image appears fuzzy. They may not be able to see behind them or in fine detail, but dogs can see things at great distances – especially if they are moving. A test of 14 police dogs found that dogs could recognise a moving object almost half a mile away. If it is stationary just over 600 yards.

Frist, don’t take this I.Q. test too seriously. A dog’s performance on these tests will no doubt be affected by many traits other than “intelligence”, such as confidence, greed, activity level, and previous experiences. It should be interesting, however, to see how different dogs react to these challenges. Maybe it will help you to understand your dog a little better!

Test 1 – Problem Solving

Place treat under soup can.

Scoring:

5 Dog gets treat in 0-5 seconds

4 Dog gets treat in 5-15 seconds

3 Dog gets treat in 16-30 seconds

2 Dog gets treat in 31-60 seconds

1 Dog tries to get treat and fails

0 Dog shows no interest

Test 2 – Problem Solving

Quickly throw a large towel over the dog’s head and shoulders.

Scoring:

5 Dog gets free in 0-15 seconds

4 Dog gets free in 16-30 seconds

3 Dog gets free in 31-60 seconds

2 Dog gets free in 1-2 minutes

1 Dog doesn’t get free within 2 minutes

Test 3 – Problem Solving

Place treat under a small towel.

Scoring:

5 Dog gets treat in 0-15 seconds

4 Dog gets treat in 16-30 seconds

3 Dog gets treat in 31-60 seconds

2 Dog gets treat in 1-2 minutes

1 Dog tries to get treat and fails

0 Dog shows no interest

Test 4 – Short Term Memory

Let the dog see you place a biscuit in the corner of the ring, then turn him loose.

Scoring:

5 Dog goes straight to the treat

4 Dog searches systematically and finds the treat

3 Dog searches randomly but finds treat in under 45 seconds

2 Dog searches but fails to find treat

1 Dog shows no interest

Test 5 – Long Term Memory

Let the dog see you place a biscuit in the corner of the ring (a different corner than the one in the test 4), remove him for 5 minutes, play with him, return, and then turn him loose.

Scoring:

5 Dog goes straight to treat

4 Dog goes to the corner from test 4, then the correct corner

3 Dog searches systematically and finds treat

2 Dog searches randomly but finds treat in under 45 seconds

1 Dog searches but fails to find treat

0 Dog shows no interest

Test 6 – Problem Solving and Manipulation

Place treat under a low platform (too low and far enough back to reach with mouth).

Scoring:

5 Dog gets treat in under 1 minute

4 Dog gets treat in 1-3 minutes

3 Dog uses paws and muzzle but fails to get treat

2 Dog uses muzzle only a few times and gives up

1 Dog doesn’t try to get treat

Test 7 – Language Comprehension

Leave dog as if for a recall and in your usual voice, call “Refrigerator”.

Scoring:

3 Dog comes

Call “Movies”

2 Dog comes

Call ” (dogs name), Come”

5 Dog comes

Call ” (dogs name), Come” again

4 Dog comes

1 Dog fails to come

Test 8 – Problem Solving

Dog is shown a treat through a slit in a large cardboard barricade. Dog should not be able to get treat through the slit. Handler encourages dog to get treat.

Scoring:

5 Dog goes around barrier in 0-15 seconds

4 Dog goes around barrier in 16-30 seconds

3 Dog goes around barrier in 31-60 seconds

Handler stops encouraging dog after 1 minute

2 Dog goes around barrier in 1-2 minutes

1 Dog tries to reach through slit and gives up

0 Dog shows no interest

Interpretation:

36 – 40 = Genius!!!!!

32 – 35 = Highly Intelligent!!!!

28 – 31 = High Average!!!!!!!

20 – 27 = Average!!!!!!!

16 – 19 = Low Average!!!!!

12 – 15 = Borderline!!!!!!!

0 – 11 = Deficient!!! (a Really dumb dog!)

1. The styles of dog collars

There are many styles of dog collars to choose from depending on your dog’s size and disposition, and your training need. For the majority of dogs, a traditional nylon or leather dog collar is sufficient. Other dog collars for specific situations are described below.

• Traditional Dog Collars: Traditional dog collars are available in a variety of styles, colors, and widths. They should ride high on your dog’s neck, not loose so that it slides down near the top of his shoulder blades. For your dog’s safety, the collar should not be loose enough to slip over the pet’s head. Collars should also not be so tight as to restrict breathing or cause coughing. Every collar you own should have a current nametag attached to it at all times.
• Dog Harnesses:  Harnesses, which go around the neck and around the shoulders behind the front legs, are recommended for dogs who have upper respiratory disease or diseases of the throat or trachea, such as a collapsed trachea. If a dog with a collar pulls on the leash, it places pressure on the throat and trachea, causing irritation and coughing. Harnesses relieve that pressure.
• Halter-type Dog Collars: It will give you the best control over your dog. They give you control of your dog’s head and when you have control of the dog’s head, you have control of the dog. There are several brands of these halter-type collars including the Halti collar. These collars look more like a horse’s halter, with a band going around the back of the head, and anothe r around the nose. The leash snaps onto the collar under the chin. When you pull on the leash, the dog’s head will either be pulled down or to the side – this makes it virtually impossible for the dog to move ahead or pull you forward.
• Chain-slip Dog Collars: It also called check chain or ‘choke collars,’ provide effective training and retraining tools when used correctly and on appropriate dogs. These collars are most often used for dogs that are strong-willed, pull when on a lead or those that does not respond to training when wearing traditional collars.
  If you plan to use a choke collar on your dog, have a trainer show you how to use it correctly. Correct usage involves a quick ‘tug-and-release’ action (as opposed to a steady pulling) that tells the pet a different behavior is desired. These collars should only be worn during training sessions, never in a crate, and avoided in pets with delicate tracheas, such as Yorkshire Terriers.
  For correct sizing, measure your pet’s neck and add 2-1/2″- 3″. There is a right and wrong way to put a slip collar on a dog. To correctly place a collar on a dog, the top ring on a properly-looped collar forms a letter P when you stand in front of the dog and pull it snug. If it forms the number 9, it is on backward and may not release immediately as designed, which may cause discomfort or gagging.
• Pronged Collars: Pronged Collars, also called pinch collars, contain blunt prongs that protrude inward from the links. Designed for only the most stubborn pullers, they are temporary training tools used to change behavior on dogs that do not respond to any other collar. Halter-type collars give you more control and are much less likely to harm your dog.
  We have found that owners who know how to correctly train dogs rarely nee d these types of collars. Rather, they learned they were training their pet incorrectly, and were able to successfully train their dog using other collars after learning proper methods.

2. The Material of dog collars

In essence, a collar can be anything that fits around the neck. This definition leaves a wide margin for materials that can be used in manufacturing dog collars. The most popular materials, however, are nylon, canvas and leather for both function and fashion reasons. Nylon dog collars are great light weight options for smaller breeds, while canvas and woven fabric dog collars are fast drying, durable collars for sporty dogs that enjoy the water. Leather is the most common dog collar material due to its strength, versatility and elegant appearance. These three material options are excellent choices for all dog collars. Just choose the style that best suits your taste as well as your dog’s breed and activity level.

3. Dog collar accessories

A collar isn’t a collar without the essential accessories. Collars may be the foundation of every dog’s wardrobe, but it’s like having great clothes without the shoes and coat to get you where you’re going.

Two of the most important roles of a dog collar are to provide protection and identification; this makes a leash and pet ID tags vital additions to any new collar. Leashes allow for constant contact with your dog, ensuring that you’re there to help protect from possible danger such as cars and aggressive dogs. They are also required in most public areas, making them necessary to give your dog adequate exercise. In addition to their practical implications, a matching leash and collar set can also make a strong fashion statement for the dog and owner. Identification tags should be affixed to a dog’s collar at all times. If your dog becomes separated form you, ID tags are the ticket home. They should include the dog’s name, phone number and any critical medical or health information at a bare minimum. An address, owner’s name, pet license number, etc, can also be stated on the ID tags if desired.

An optional collar accessory is a harness. Dog harnesses can be worn in addition to a collar to provide a different method for attaching a leash. Dogs that pull hard on a leash may require a harness to avoid possible trachea damage from a collar. Wearing a collar is still necessary at all times for identification reasons. Many designer dog collars have matching leashes and harnesses to complete the set.

4. Dog collar shopping

There are many options to choose from when you shop for your dog’s collar and accessories. Remember to keep safety in mind first and foremost, which most dog collar designs take in serious consideration. Fortunately for canines and their owners alike, there are many safe dog collar options that are both convenient and aesthetically appealing. It may take some time to find the perfect elements combining safety, comfort and edgy style, but shopping is half the fun of finding a great dog collar.

There are alternative selections available for dog collars, but only a small percentage of them have legitimate uses. Chain choke collars are found in most pet stores and are said to be used for training purposes, however, most people do not know how to use these collars properly and only end up causing more harm than good. This same notion can be applied to pronged choke collars which, although barbaric in appearance, can work when used correctly in the situations they were designed for. Anyone considering a chain choke collar or pronged choke collar for training purposes would be advised to get a martingale style collar. Martingale collars are a more humane option than choke collars and are easy to use. If you feel you must use a choker style of collar, ask your trainer or pet store owner the best method of using and fitting this type of collar.

Dog collars can also be made with many other types of materials, including plastic, and have fixtures added on for decoration, like studs or spikes. Plastics are used in cone collars and flea collars, which should only be used for medical purposes under veterinarian recommendation. Plastic collars are also useful for hunting and sporting dogs as they can be imbedded with reflective properties. The same benefit can also be achieved by attaching a reflective strip of material or flashing lights to any ordinary collar. Metal studs or spikes are also occasionally added on collars. Although this is most often done for fashion purposes, a studded dog collar can also help protect mild mannered dogs from more aggressive dogs that they may come in contact with.

5. Sizing of dog collars

When fitting a dog collar, comfort and convenience need to be considered. The collar should be loose enough to easily fit two fingers under it while being tight enough that it can’t slip over the dog’s ears. The best way to measure a dog’s neck for a collar is to use a string, then measure the length against a ruler. This measurement will give a good indication on a median size of collar. If the dog’s neck measures 13” around, then it’s best to get a dog collar with a 12” to 14” range.

Even though most dog collars are adjustable, the perfect fit will fall between the biggest and smallest possible size to prevent excess length, or having a collar that is too short to fasten. If the collar is for a growing puppy, it would be advisable to get a collar with lots of room for adjustment to larger sizes.

6. Fashion VS. Function

As with any piece of apparel, dog collars can sometimes get carried away with either high function or high fashion; many are not suitable to meet the needs of both. Drab, dull looking collars may fulfill their dog handling roles, but they are completely focused on the basic duties of a collar, ignoring character and individuality. Delicate jeweled collars may look adorable, but they fail to compensate for dogs that may pull on the leash causing it to give way and allow the dog to run into dangers unknown. Fortunately, these are the two extremes of the spectrum in dog collar designs, but there are many options that do a beautiful job merging fashion with function.

To find the perfect balance, factors such as breed, lifestyle, attitude and training must be considered. Large breeds like St. Bernard dogs will require thicker, heavy duty collars, whereas, a more lightweight collar may suffice with a breed like a Toy Poodle. An obedience class graduate may be happy in a collar that doesn’t restrict movement, while a more “free-spirited” pup will need the extra guidance a firm collar will provide. Collars that fit these criteria vary in design, size and the materials used to create them.

Which Collar Is Right For Your Dog? The collar fits your dog is right one! Finding the collar that fits is a fun way to spend time with your dog.

“Protection from the heat, parasites, car safety, and sterilizing your dog are some of the issues that, while important year-round, need extra attention during the summer months…” said Nancy Peterson, issues specialist for the companion animals division of The Humane Society of the United States(HSUS).

As the summer sets in, dogs are more susceptible to the summer heat than we are. They have to wear a fur coat all year around. Whereas, we can sweat to cool ourselves down, our pups sweat only through glands on the nose and paws and try to release heat by panting.

To keep your dog is safe in the summer and pay attention to the tips below:

1. Adjust the exercise routine

Don’t let your dog walk as far or as fast when it’s hot outside. You can make a walk with your dog at the early summer morning and evening. Reduce the more exercises everyday and Keep in mind that asphalt can get hot enough to burn your dogs’ paws. If your dog stays in the cool room equipped with air conditioner for a long time, don’t let your dog out immediately, otherwise, your dog will catch a cold.

2. Limit Time outdoors

Dogs can only release body heat by panting and through the pads of their feet. Because they have a harder time cooling down than humans, they can easily overheat and are especially susceptible to heatstroke because they have a harder time panting. I suggest you the time of outdoors is no more than 1 hours every day. Don’t play with your dog for a long time, saving your dog’s energy is very important, Overtime exercises will cause your dog heat stroke and dehydration.

3. Be careful the sun burn

Your dog can get sunburned if they’re out in the sun too long. Your lovely pup with light-colored noses and fur are especially susceptible. Don’t cut your dog coat shorten, although you maybe think it will make your dog cool. If you plan to be outside for a while, put a natural, non-toxic sunscreen on your pet (on his nose, ears, and top of head, especially). Remember don’t use the sunscreen for humans for your dog. Dog store can sell sunscreens formulated especially for dogs.

4. Avoid the danger of cars

Don’t leave your dog in a parked car. You will kill your dog if you leave your dog in a parked car. Even with the window cracked, temperature can rise up to 30 degrees in the space of a few minutes. If your dog is near or in the back of the parked car, it is very dangerous too. An accident could cause an injury to your dog.

5. Be careful pools and water

Not all dogs can swim, or get out of a pool if they fall in. Dogs should not have free access to pool areas; they should use them only when supervised. If you want take your dog on boat, you may want to get a doggy life preserver to help keep your dog afloat.

6. Don’t take a bath for your dog everyday

Some guys bath their dog everyday in order to keep the dog cooler in summer. It is no good to your dog’s health because that will dry out the skin, deplete healthy oils from the coat and skin, and lead to scratching and irritation. Frequency is largely dependent on the breed and activities of the dog. Dogs who spend a lot of time outside or engage in outdoor activities that expose them to dirt, bugs and/or debris typically require more bathing, perhaps every 6 weeks or more frequently.

7. Grooming your dog every day

You can groom your dog every day, not bathing. Brush your dog thoroughly every day. This helps keep your dog hair in good condition by removing dirt, spreading the natural oils throughout the coat, preventing tangles from forming and keeping the skin clean and free from irritation.

8. Clean your dog teeth and face frequently

Your dog can get cavities and develop periodontal disease, so the teeth should be cleaned with dog toothpaste at least twice per week especially in summer. It is best to use a small toothbrush that has soft bristles. Cleanings performed by a veterinarian may also be required

9. Fresh dog food and more water

Raise your dog by fresh food everyday. In summer the dog food is easily bad, so it is better to buy dry dog food in bulk, and don’t feed your dog too much every time. Bad dog food will cause a lot of illnesses. If you find your dog lethargy, disorientation, weakness, weight loss, you should find you dog vet immediately. And in summer, you should supply your dog more fresh water to avoid the dog dehydration.

10.Protect your dog from fleas and ticks

Summer is primetime for such parasites, but many flea and tick control products contain dangerous pesticides. Option for a natural flea and tick repellant is effective and safe for your dog.

Finally, hope your dog and you are both safe in the summer time!

Canines do not like seeing their owners offering affection to other creatures, especially other dogs, and react negatively when their owners bring home new partners, the research found.

Psychologists previously believed most animals lack the “sense of self” needed to experience so-called secondary emotions such as jealousy, embarrassment, empathy or guilt. These emotions are more complex than feelings associated with instant reaction – such as anger, lust or joy.

Dr Friederike Range, of the University of Vienna’s neurobiology department, has shown that dogs feel intense jealously when they spot that they are unfairly treated compared with other dogs. “Dogs show a strong aversion to inequity,” she said.

The dog study is the latest into several species, including cows, horses, cats and sheep, which have shown that animals are far more self-aware than was thought.

Dr Paul Morris, a psychologist at the University of Portsmouth who studies animal emotions, told The Sunday Times: “We are learning that dogs, horses, and perhaps many other species are far more emotionally complex than we ever realised. They can suffer simple forms of many emotions we once thought only primates could experience.”

In research among dog owners, Dr Morris found almost all of them reported jealous behaviour by their pets. The dog often tried to prise their owner away from a new lover in the early days of a relationship.

Behavioural experts recommend owners keeping their dog’s routine as much as possible when a new partner or child comes along in order to prevent jealous activity from the dog such as interruptions with barking or whining.