If your dog has learned how to lie down, he will learn how to paly dead soon, you can order him to lie down, then say “sleep” to him and roll the dog, let him fall down towards one side of his body with head straight down, keep the posture for a while, then stroke him until he stays.

There is another training method, it’s also effective.

You can motion toward your dog first, then simulate a single shot, such as “Bang”. After that, push your dog down on the ground, your action should be lightly and slowly to avoid to frighten him, let him lie down with belly up for several minutes. Repeat the training for 3 to 5 times everyday. After several days, your dog will establish a conditioned reflex, once you make a gesture shooting, dog will paly dead at once, if so, give him a reward.

Practice two or three times every day, your dog will succeed in one month.

 Is  it easy to teach your dog “Bye-bye”? The answer is positive. I will show the whole process of “Bye-bye” dog training.

• First, take a kind of dog’s favourite foods above his head, raise the food more higher continually. Your dog will stand up spontaneously, and hold out his two forelegs, which is the right pose “Bye-bye”.
• At this time, keep on holding the food, which induces your dog to stretch his forelegs, meanwhile, say “Bye-bye” to him.
• Repeat that several times, then give him a little tasty food as a reward and stroke his head to praise.
• After a while of training, you can stroke your dog only, without a food reward. Once the conditioned reflex is established, your dog will stand up and hold out his forelegs when he hear “Bye-bye”.

1. Hide and Go Seek

When you are out of sight of your dog, call her to you. You can either use your normal “recall” command or just her name. Be very excited when she arrives. Start making it more difficult by “hiding” behind doors, couches, etc. If she doesn’t find you at first, call her again. If your dog is very good at “stay” you can use this to keep her in place while you hide. Some dogs will use their noses for this task, others will just look. Most of them will learn a faster recall. This is a great game for kids to play with dogs, as long as the kids don’t encourage the dog to chase them.  I played this for hours with my first dog when I was young!

2. Treasure Hunt

Put your dog in a down-stay and place a treat (food or toy) within sight. Return to your dog and release her, and encourage her to go to the treat — she can eat it or play with it. Repeat this, varying where you put the treat. Next time, “hide” the treat where the dog can’t see it, but she can see you putting it there (behind a piece of furniture, for example). Release her, and let her get the treat (show her if necessary). Next, hide the treat in further away, then in another room, out of sight, and if she stays in her “stay” let her find it. You can increase the distance, difficulty, and even number of treats (several small food bits) as your dog gets better at “stay”. This is especially good for dogs that have begun to learn “stay” but are nervous about having their people go out of sight.

3. Clean Up Your Toys

Get a box or bucket and collect a number of toys and other dog-safe items (don’t start with things your dog likes to hoard or that you don’t want them ever touching). Scatter the toys in a small pile on the floor. Through shaping and teasing, get the dog to pick up the items one at a time, and place them in your hand. Once the dog is lifting the items high enough to get your hand underneath to receive, you are well started. Be sure to reward each “gift” with a food treat. Make it harder and harder to put stuff in your hand, while maintaining the fun of this “return for refund” game. Each item retrieved is dumped into the bucket. The dog will leave harder ones for later, so over time make substitutions that make the items increasingly difficult for the dog. Some dogs take the leap and start putting things directly into the bucket themselves.

4. Simon Says

If you have the right attitude, you can make obedience training a game. Let your dog prove how clever she or he is by sitting when you say “sit”, lying down when you say “down”, etc. Try it when your eyes are closed, your back is to the dog, or you are in a different position like lying down or even standing on your head! Mix up “drop it”, “take it/get it”, “hold it”, and “leave it”.

5. Fetch

Some dogs are natural fetchers, others are not. All can learn to enjoy this game. Be sure to teach and practice “drop it” first. If your dog refuses to return the ball (and this is pretty instinctive!), or drops it too far away, end the game in disgust. Don’t turn “fetch” into “keep away”! “Fetch” can be shaped by rewarding interest in a toy, then approaching a toy, then touching it, then mouthing it, then picking it up. Use a clicker to click-and-treat faster retrieves, catches in the air, or a neater return.

6. Tug of War

The secret to playing this game successfully is for you, the human, to control it. For this game, choose one particular toy that will be used as your tug rope (don’t use one of your socks, or food items, or the leash!). Never play tug with any other toy. You start the game by picking up the toy and encouraging your dog to also pick it up. Give a particular cue that the game has started, like “Let’s tug!”. Some dogs will refuse to do this with you, especially if they’ve been punished for tugging in the past. You can start small by clicking and treating them for holding one end while you hold the other. However, tugging is instinctive for dogs (it’s a cooperative act in packmate feeding) so your dog should catch on quickly. Tug a few times, then tell your dog “drop it”. (You can use the same cheerful tone of voice y ou use for “sit” or “come”). You can reward him for dropping it with either a treat or another round of tug.

Make sure that you end the game if your dog gets too rough or agitated. Simply ask for “drop it”, praise for it, and put the toy away. If the dog refuses to let go, you let go of your end and walk away (it takes two to tug). Don’t try to take the toy back because that will be starting the game over.

Ignore the dog if she or he tries to start the game. Wait until she or he has stopped bugging you and is doing something your want to reward (even if that’s lying quietly). Practice Tug – Drop it – Tug – Drop it. If the dog starts anticipating and grabs the toy, drop your end and leave in disgust. You decide when the game is over; reward the last “drop it” and then put the toy away where the dog can’t get it.

Some books will warn against this because of the fear that the dog will try to establish dominance, or that the dog will refuse to drop other items (see side box). Dogs and wolves do not try to establish dominance through tug-of-war games, and the fact that you start and stop it the game at your will maintains your “dominance”. If your dog has a problem with guarding items or refuses to drop things, work on that first. One way to train “drop it” is to give the dog a large item to hold, then offer a very desirable treat in exchange. Be patient — don’t try to chase the dog around, offering the treat (why should the dog take food from you when getting chased by you is so much fun? See “Keep Away”, below). When the dog goes for the treat, click as soon as the toy is dropped and give the treat. Don’t grab for the toy yourself. If the dog picks it up again, try another exchange. When the dog is dropping the toy regularly, start giving the cue “drop it” before each treat offer.

7. Keep Away

Like tug-of-war, this is a fun game your dog will enjoy while you continue to establish control. Again, choose one item. Give it to your dog and give some cue like “keep away!” It helps to use consistent body language, too — exaggerated stalking or reaching pose. Chase your dog, repeating your cue. End with an “OK, good dog!” and then ignore any of her or his attempts to get the game started again. Remember, you start the game and you end it. So this is how it goes: you say, “I’m gonna GET you” and you chase the dog for a few steps, and the dog runs away laughing. You then call the dog to you and reward him for coming, then say “I’m gonna GET you” again and chase him. After a few repetitions you might ask for a “sit”, “down” or other command instead of “come”. It’s another impulse-control game, with the reward being the chase-away. If he does not respond to your command, you say “oh well” and walk (or run!) off to do something else. Of course when you really do want to get your dog, or take something from him, you use a different command and different body language.

Is it too late to socialize my dog?

If you have a puppy, this is the prime window of opportunity to properly socialize your dog. However, even older dogs, whether recently adopted or having been your pet for awhile already, can improve their socialization skills.

How to start to socialize my dog?

One of the best things you can do is to take your dog out, off of your property on a regular basis. Walks around your neighborhood, trips in the car, bringing your dog to the park, a stroll around downtown or to the pet supply store are all great opportunities. Your dog should have the opportunity to see lots of people, dogs, bicycles and various other stimuli.

Other important things to socialize your dog with include things around the home such as household appliances, visitors, neighborhood children and other normal daily occurrences, such as neighbors being in their yard or putting out their trash, the letter carrier, etc.

When you and your dog are together, be sure to watch your dog’s reaction carefully. For example, if you drop a heavy book on the floor and it makes a loud noise, what does your dog do? A fearful reaction would be to run and hide, a dominant reaction would be to run up and pounce on the book, and a neutral (best possible) reaction would be to walk up to the book and curiously sniff it.

No matter which way your dog responds, it’s your reaction that will help reinforce or correct your dog’s behavior. If your dog is hiding from or attacking the book, you’ll want to teach him that this is not the proper response (correct  “no” ), and if your dog is curiously sniffing it you’ll want to reinforce with praise.

This is why obedience training in post of day1 and day2 of 6 days of mini dog training course is so important. By working on basic commands:  “sit”, “down”, “stay” and “come”,  your dog will already know what “no” and  “good dog”  mean, and it will be much easier to understand what you’re trying to teach about socialization and other things in day-to-day life. You’ll also be able to use the obedience commands to teach replacement behaviors.

For example, if your dog was hiding, an appropriate response would be for you to correct “no” and then have your dog walk past, sit, and stay near the book, followed by praise. If your dog was attacking the book, you would correct “no” and then use obedience commands to teach your dog to calmly coexist with it. Of course, a calm reaction of sniffing the book curiously should be praised lavishly.

The goal in social environments for a dog is to remain calm and relaxed in almost every situation – this relaxed behavior has a positive domino effect that helps put other dogs at ease and keeps you feeling secure, as well. This is the healthy way for a dog to interact with its world, and it’s the goal you should strive for.

Teach your dog not to eat stranger’s food

If your dog is stolen by dog stealer, I think it is so wretched, even if you have the pet insurance. You can not see your loverly dog again, you lose him for ever.  So  You must teach your dog not to eat what the stranger gives to keep your dog safe from the danger of dog stealer.

First, you must find a “Stranger”. You can invite your friend that your dog doesn’t see him before as the ” Stranger”. Don’t ask  any of your family members to do so, it will cause your dog confused. He can not judge who is the stranger. After all, your family members are safe to your dog, right?

You can train your dog with the “stranger” assistant at a queit place. The assistant show the food to your dog and your dog is going to eat the assistant’s food. Say “NO” to him loudly, at the same time, pull the leash with force to stop him. When your dog notice your face and you should give him a serious expression. In order to make your dog establish conditioned reflex to the command, you should repeat for many times until your dog have no any trendition to eat stranger’s food.  If your dog do right, you can give your dog a treat and praise him. If your dog barks at the assistant, your assistant should run away at once. And you must give your dog a treat and say” Good Boy”.

But sometimes you don’t stay with your dog and if your dog eat the stranger’s food when you are out, how to solve it? The simple method: Ask your assistant to feed your dog the food with something acid or bitter. Repeat 2-3 days, your dog will refuse the food from any strangers.

Delano ! I want to solve my dog pee problem. He runs in a circle in the house when he needs to poop, so we can bring him outside. But he shows no signs he needs to pee. When we bring him outside, he doesn’t pee. He comes inside and pee, and most times we don’t even know that he did until 20 minutes later.

Most people have this trouble of dog pee/poop that mentioned in my guest email.  If your dog has already this bad habit, don’t despair, it is not late to train him. I hope it can help you to solve this problem in Day3 of  6 Days Mini Dog Training Course.

Stop dog pee pad right away

If you are using the dog pee pad inside, I think you must stop it straight away. It is useless for training dog pee outside, although most people think it can help dogs to pee at the right location. In fact, it is giving your dog mixed messages: ” I can pee inside, I can’t pee inside”. It is too confusing for your dog.

Take your dog outside every of hour

You have to make a real effort to train your dog. You need to take him out every of hour, twice if needed. It is better way to set an alarm to remind you, as time will get away, and your dog will have an accident. You don’t think your dog can hold on for hours without peeing inside, however, you would still not leave them locked in the house all day and expect them not to pee. Even on those horrible rainy days, you wouldn’t risk it. As you know what it smells like once your dog have peed on your carpet. If you are not at home, don’t put your dog in a crate. You should give your dog the entrance to outside, if he wants to pee.

Praise your dog when he pees outside

When you take your dog outside and he pees, prasie him at once. Dogs are just like small children, they love to know they’ve done right. When your dog pee inside, don’t scold him, just clean it up and move on. You must understand it, your dog has no choice but to pee in the house. He needs more time to has a good habit.

Repeat training over and over

Sometimes your dog doen’t pee when you take him outside. It doesn’t matter. You should repeat training over and over until your dog can pee outside. I think your dog will pee outside at last if you have more patiences. Trust me, 1 week is enough. You dog can pee outside. Maybe at first days, your dog pee outside and inside. Don’t worry it about. Your dog just forgets he must pee outside when he pees inside. Your dog needs more time to know why he must pees outside.

• Teaching your dog to know his name
• Teaching your dog to sit
• Teaching your dog to lie down
• Teaching your dog to come when called

Well, what’s the key points for them?

1. Dog training should be fun for both of you and your dog
2. Keep the training seessions short but frequent and varied
3. Before a meal is better than after, no one works well on a full stomach, the same with dogs
4. Remember to allow for titbits used in dog training

In day2 I will show you other 3 useful basic action commands:

Teaching your dog to wait

Most dogs are curious when they find dog owners are doing somthing, and they want to follow dog owners or jump around. So “wait” command is very useful, escpecially if you’d like to make your dog stay there quietly and wait for you when he is not on his leash. Before you teach your dog to wait, you must teach your dog to sit. That’s why I write “teaching your dog to wait” in day2.

Useing a voice command “stay” and a hand signal by waving your hands before your dog face. When you turn back on your dog and go, your dog will be attempt to follow you. If it happens, turn  back to your dog and saying in a frim tone, “stay” agian. Repeat this step for times unitl you can walk 2 steps and your dog is still there, don’t movie. Call your dog name to ask your dog come. Don’t forget to reward your dog and praise him. Once you find your dog can understand your commands, then to next step. Take your dog to a room and say command “stay”. This time you will walk into another room and your dog will not see you. If you dog come with you. You repeat it agian. Most of dogs can do it well for 4-5 times by repeating. But remember don’t let your dog in the room for a long time.

Teaching your dog to fetch

Fetch is a simple command and is taught easily to your dog. Your dog is very pleasure to fetch. In this simple form of a rudimentary game, fetch is primarily used as an entertainment with a primary purpose of creating bonding time beteween your dog and you.

One of the basic methods of training the fetch command is using dog toys in a bait. The toys must be something your dog enjoys playing with. Starting with your dog on a leash, show the toy to your dog , then throw the toy a short distance. Release your dog from the leash and say “fetch”. Your dog will chase after the toy and, most likely, will pick it up. When your dog starts to return with the toy.  Give your dog reward and praise him. Your dog will likely drop the toy. When this happens, wait for your dog to return to you and be reattached to the leash before throwing the toy again. After throwing the toy again, say “fetch” while releasing your dog to give chase. Repeat this process several times using the fetch command. For dogs that are not toy motivated, try adding a bit of flavoring to the game by way of  food reward when the behavior is carried out properly.

Teaching your dog stand up

If you intend to show your dog, you need to train him to stand up on command. Even if you are not showing the dog, there are times that you want to be able to tell your dog to stand and have him do as you say. This command can be useful at the vets office and while bathing him, as well as other times.

Stand along side of your dog while she is laying down. Gently slide your hand under her belly until she goes to stand up. As soon as he starts moving, give the command “stand.” Praise him with enthusiasm, after he is fully standing, saying “good boy stand.” Repeat this several times until he learns to stand when you say the word without having to put your hand under him. Approach your dog while he is sitting and hold a treat in your hand where he can see it. Take a couple of steps backwards holding the treat at nose level. Your dog should stand up to move towards the treat. Give the command “stand” as soon as the dog starts to get up. After he is completely standing tell her “good boy, stand” and give him the treat. Practice the stand from a sit using the treat several times and then try giving the command without the treat in your hand. Back up when you say the word “stand” and if he stands praise him and groom him. Try saying “stand” without backing up after your dog has mastered the last step.

1. Remember dog training is a happy game between you and your dog.

I must mention you: Enjoying happy time during dog training with your dog is frist and import thing. Do not  think it is hard and irrealizable work. Playing with your dog can help in bulding bond between you and your dog.

2. Making a simple plan and write it in your notebook.

Good plan is very helpful for your dog training. A simple plan including basic dog action training can be finished easily. It will take both of you and your dog happy. Don’t make a complexable and long-time plan. I think it is no good and you will lose your patience. You will so excited after finding your lovely dog can understand some of simple your commends in a short time.

3. Don’t hurt your dog

Dogs have their own self-esteem. It is very stupid do any indignity thing, like saying ” You are a stupid dog!” or using any rude punishments for your dog. You can teach your dog the commend of “stop” or “no”, even by waving your hands or shaking your head during your dog is engaging in bad behavior.

4. Reward and praise your dog

If your dog learns some new commands, praise your dog frequently. Alothough, your dog don’t know what you are saying, but he can understand what to you want to express. Dogs can understand your body language and face. During every lessons, don’t forget to reward you dog titbit if he can do some actions for your commands.

5. Get your dog attention

Before you start dog training, you should get your dog attention. It is very easy by giving him a treat or saying to him. It is vital that you are able to keep this attention in order to proceed with further training.

6. Do dog training everyday

You must teach your dog one command at a time and don’t move on until he gets it. Rushing dog training will kill your dog training. Don’t push your dog beyond his capability. A little dog training everyday is all that’s needed.

7. Full of love, care, and hope during dog training forever! Enjoying it !

Teaching your dog to lie down

This is an ideal position for the dog to be in while you examine him or administer first aid. A dog which is lying down is less reactive to what is going on around him and is far more likely to stay in position should he need to be left for a few moments.  An instant down from a distance can be a life saver if the dog is heading for danger such as an approaching train when he is running close to a railway line, a horse galloping down a bridleway etc.

Start with the puppy paying attention to you in the sit position. Using his favourite titbit, hold the titbit level with the dog’ s nose and slowly lower the titbit down in front of your dog.  On reaching the floor, drag the titbit towards you.  Your dog’ s head should follow the titbit and he will slide into the down position.

Praise your dog and give him the reward at the moment that he assumes the correct position.  It may take a few attempts before your dog catches on and understands what is required of him before he earns the reward.  Some dogs, particularly of the smaller breeds, do not lie down properly using this method. If this is happening, try sitting next to the dog and using your legs as a “bridge” to draw the titbit under. The dog will follow the titbit under the “bridge” and will be encouraged to lie down.  Make sure he received his reward at the exact moment when he lies down.  Don’t use the command until you are sure your dog understands what you want from him.

Teaching your dog to come when called

Very young puppies tend to follow their people around, and it is easy to be lulled into a false sense of security that this will continue forever! Sooner or later you will take your puppy for walks somewhere with many interesting distractions and for the safety and sanity of all concerned it helps if you are confident your puppy will come back.  Many dogs are never allowed to run free as their owners are afraid they will not come back when called. This is very frustrating for the dog and makes it difficult for them to express normal canine behaviours. Your dog will be eager to return to you if you make sure that you are the most exciting thing around! This is very easy in the house with no major distractions but can be a little more difficult in the dog park where there are other dogs to play with.

Remember that your dog’ s line of focus is very low to the ground, so don’t be afraid to get down to his level – bend or kneel down and tap the floor, shake a toy or clap your hands.  As with any training exercise, always gain your dog’s attention before issuing any commands. Have his interest focused on you and, once you are sure he is coming towards you call his name and the word “come”. Lots of praise is needed every time the puppy comes to you, even when you have not called him. If the puppy becomes distracted before he reaches you, back away from him, making lots of exciting noises to attract his attention.

Do not be tempted to go after him – this will turn into a terrific chasing game and he will probably win!  Always praise the dog when he comes to you, no matter how long it takes.  Have the dog come close enough to you that you can touch his collar (this will be helpful in the future when you need him to come back and have his lead put on), and offer the food reward.

Especially while your dog is young, he will probably stay fairly close to you on walks and will return to you regularly for reassurance.  Take advantage of this, and encourage him to turn this into a habit for life.  Whenever you see your dog coming towards you of his own free will, call his name and “come” and reward him with praise, and a game or food treat when he reaches you.  Let him go away again, saying”good boy, go play” or similar, to continue the game – it’s no fun coming back if you just get put straight on the lead every time

“Knowing his name”, “sit”, ” lie down”, “come”, these four actions are the basic for dog training. For the first day, you should start from them. And please remember the policy I mentioned in post “Is it hard to train a dog” : It is better to has 3-5 lessons per day and 5-10 minutes per lesson. During every break between 2 lessons, release your dog for a while, and then start fresh tricks.

• Leaving comments on posts with your own experiences
• Asking questions for other dog trainer blogger to cover in the comments of this post
• Posting your own dog training tips on your own blog and letting me know about them so I can link up

Hopefully it’ll not only help us all learn a little more about dog training but it will give those who write the tips a little free publicity in return for their hard work.

6 Days Mini Dog Training Course – Day1 (Part 1)

1. Barking

Most dogs bark, howl and whine to some degree. Excessive barking is considered a behavior problem. Before you can correct barking, determine why your dog is vocalizing in the first place. Most common types of barking as below:

• Waring or Scare
• Happy or Excitement
• Trying to Seeking
• Anxiety
• Boredom
• Responding to Other DogsHow to control excessive barking?  My Simple Methods of Controlling Dog Barking can help you.

2. Chewing

Many dogs like to chew on everything they encounter. Chewing is a natural action for all dogs – it’s just a part of the way they are wired. Certainly, very young puppies explore the world around them by tasting most of what they find. First of all, as a practical measure, remove anything harmful from the dog’s way. Put electrical wiring behind furniture wherever possible, put cleaning supplies up out of reach or secure the cabinet doors to them. Clean small objects off the floor.

Make sure you have a supply of allowable chewing items on hand. Whenever the dog is in a crate or small room, there should always be some of these toys to chew on. Whenever you are at home and see the dog about to chew on something it shouldn’t, say “AH-AH” and give it one of its toys.

There are products available to spray on items to make them taste unpleasant. Some caveats: a few dogs are not bothered by the taste; it’s not really a cure for the underlying problem, but it does help you train the dog; you must make sure the product does not harm the item to be sprayed first. Bitter Apple and Bitter Orange are available at most pet supply stores; veterinarians have other formulations they may sell to you. The judicious use of crating, toys, and watching the puppy closely will be the way you teach it to leave your house alone.

3. Digging

Dogs may dig out of boredom or to make a cooling/heating pit.

• Filling in the holes: Try refilling the holes with junk. With junk, dogs can quickly lose interest and pretty much stop digging. Fill the hole with whatever is at hand – dead leaves, sticks, pine needles, rocks or even dog feces. Fill the top 2 inches or so with dirt. The dog finds the stuff, gets discouraged and often quits digging. They seem to get the idea they’ll never know where they’ll find junk, and it’s not worth the effort to dig only to find junk so they quit.
• Surprises in the hole: The Koehler dog method advocates filling holes with water and sticking dog’s head under the water for a few seconds or so. This may not work with some breeds (e.g., Labradors), and may not appeal to you as a method to try. Alternatively, you can try burying a water balloon in one of the holes which will pop in its face when it starts digging (surprise).
• A sandbox: Try to remember that digging is a natural tendency for dogs. So, if there is any place where your dog may be allowed to dig, you should encourage it (and only in that place). Designate an area where the dog can dig. Many people build a sand box for their dog. Place the box in an area that is cool in summer and warm in winter.To teach the dog to dig only in the box, place or bury toys or treats (sliced hotdogs, for example) in the box. Encourage the dog to dig up the toy or treat. Praise the dog. Repeat until the dog willingly jumps in and digs. Watch the dog. When it starts to dig in any other place, quickly go out and take your dog to its box. Show it (by digging yourself), that it should dig in its box. To deter boredom, place several toys/treats in the box before you leave for work. The dog will spend its time digging in the correct place rather than digging up your roses. You can also sprinkle animal essence (available at hunting supplies places).Remember that dogs like to dig in freshly turned earth. So get out that shovel and turn the dirt over in the sand box every now and then. Toss in some fresh dirt. Keep a close eye on freshly planted areas, as they will be very attractive (bury some extra hotdogs in the sandbox when you are putting down new plants).
• Line the yard: for extreme cases you can line the yard with chicken wire and put a layer of sod over that. Use paving bricks or blocks around the edge to prevent the dog from injuring itself on the edge of the chicken wire.

4. Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety is one of the most commonly discussed dog behavior problems. Manifestations include vocalization, chewing, inappropriate urination and defecation, and other forms of destruction that occur when a dog is separated from his owner. Not all of these actions are the result of separation anxiety. Signs of true separation anxiety include:

• Dog becomes anxious when owner prepares to leave
• Misbehavior occurs in the first 15-45 minutes after owner leaves
• Dog wants to follow owner around constantly
• Dog tries to be touching owner whenever possible

True separation anxiety requires dedicated training, behavior modification and desensitization exercises. Medication may be recommended in extreme cases, but this should be a last resort.

5. Begging

Begging is a bad habit, but many dog owners unfortunately encourage it. This can lead to digestive problems and obesity. Dogs beg because they love food – but table scraps are not treats, and food is not love! Yes, it is hard to resist that longing look, but giving in “just this once” creates a problem in the long run. In a pack setting, a subordinate would never beg from alpha dogs without reprimand. When you teach your dog that begging is permitted, you jeopardize your role as pack leader. Before you sit down to eat, tell your dog to stay, preferably where he will not be able to stare at you. If necessary, confine him to another room. If he behaves, give him a special treat only after you and your family are completely finished eating.

6. Chasing

A dog’s desire to chase moving things is simply a display of predatory instinct. Many dogs will chase other animals, people and cars. All of these can lead to dangerous and devastating outcomes! While you may not be able to stop your dog from trying to chase, you can take steps to prevent disaster.

• Keep your dog on a leash at all times (unless directly supervised indoors).
• Train your dog to come when called.
• Have a dog whistle or noisemaker on hand to get your dog’s attention.
• Stay aware and watch for potential triggers, like joggers.

Your best chance at success is to keep the chase from getting out of control. Dedicated training over the course of your dog’s life will teach him to focus his attention on you first – before running off.

7. Jumping Up

Since most dogs are shorter than you, their natural tendency is to jump up to see you. It is also an expression of exuberance and happiness. However, you may be wearing your Sunday Best. The dog’s paws may be muddy. The puppy may grow too large. Some people are afraid of dogs. Train your dog not to jump on people. If you don’t mind your dog jumping on you, then train it to jump on you only when it’s “OK”.

In general, correct it immediately when it jumps on you, praise it when all four paws land back on ground. A helpful reinforcement is to give them a command and praise lavishly when they do it, e.g., “No! Brownie, sit! Good girl, what a good girl!”

Try to anticipate the jumping: look for their hindquarters beginning to crouch down, and correct them when you see them *about* to jump. With medium-sized dogs, you can discourage jumping with a well-timed knee in the chest (never kick). This does not work as well on small dogs and very large dogs. With small dogs, step back so they miss you; you can also splay your hand in front of you so their face bumps into it (don’t hit them, let them bump into you). Correct, then praise when on ground. With larger dogs, the kind that don’t really *jump*, but *place* their paws on your shoulders, grab some skin below their ears (be firm but not rough) and pull them down, saying “No!” Again, praise it when it is back on ground.

You should note that some dogs do not respond to the above physical corrections. They may view it as a form of rough play, or be so happy to get attention that they don’t mind it being negative. In these cases, a much more effective approach is to ignore such a dog, stepping back slightly or turning your back when it jumps. Give lavish praise and attention when all paws are on the ground again.

Gradually expand this to include friends and visitors. Start first with people who understand what you want to do and will apply the physical correction in conjunction with your “No!” As the dog improves, expand with other people. In the interim, a reinforcing exercise is to put your dog on a leash, and stand on one end of the leash or otherwise secure it so your dog can stand but not jump. When it tries to greet someone by jumping up, praise it *when it lands* and don’t correct it for attempting to jump.

For those of you who don’t mind being jumped, you can gain control over it by teaching your dog that it can jump on you — when you OK it. At random times (i.e., not *every* time you correct it), after your correction and praise for getting back down, wait thirty seconds or so, and then happily say “OK, jump” (or something similar, as long as you’re consistent) and praise your dog when it jumps up then. At other times, when it is *not* trying to jump on you, encourage it to do so on your permission, using the same phrase. You must make it clear that it shouldn’t jump on you unless you give it permission, so you must still correct unpermitted jumping.

8. Biting

It is natural for young puppies to bite and chew on people; however DON’T let them do this. If your dog is a puppy, yelp pitifully when it chomps on you, and replace your hand with a chew toy; praise heartily when the chew toy is used instead. If it persists, stand up and stop playing with it. It is no fun for the puppy if you stop interacting with it, and it will learn to stop chewing on you fairly quickly. With older puppies and dogs, say “NO BITE” sternly and withdraw your hand.

If the dog goes through a cycle where it seems to be infuriated by your correction and returns ever more aggressively to chew on you, call a timeout and put the dog where it can’t get to you, preferably its crate. When it calms down, let it back and be prepared to interrupt the cycle if it starts again. Never put up with a puppy biting or mouthing you. When they are adult, the problem will be far more severe.

9. Aggression

Dog aggression is exhibited by growling, snarling, showing teeth, lunging and biting. It is important to know that any dog has the potential to become aggressive, regardless of breed or history. However, dogs with violent or abusive histories and those bred from dogs with aggressive tendencies are much more likely to exhibit aggressive behavior towards people or other dogs. Reasons for aggression are basically the same as the reasons a dog will bite or snap, but overall canine aggression is a much more serious problem. If your dog has aggressive tendencies, consult your vet first – it may stem from a health problem. Then, seek the help of an experienced dog trainer. Serious measures should be taken to keep others safe from aggressive dogs!

10. Getting in the Garbage

You should train your dog away from this habit. Crate it, to keep it out of the garbage when you are not home, and correct it when it gets into it when you are at home. This works best if you start in puppyhood. If you already have this problem, some approaches to try:

You can get “Mr. Yuk” labels and put them in the trash to keep them out of it or spray Bitter Apple into it. But you have to remember to do this regularly. If you can, put the trash out of reach of the dog, eg, under the sink. You may need to get the kinds of trash cans that have closing lids. Don’t start easy and work your way up as the dog figures each one out: you are just training your dog how to open garbage cans. Get a good, well secured one at the start.

Get some jalapeno peppers, or something that your dog REALLY HATES. Slice them up and spend some time wrapping each one individually in tissues or kleenex. Fill the trash can with the wrapped surprises and let your dog at it. A few days of this should convince your dog that trash cans are not fun.

Put a mousetrap in the bottom of an empty can, cover it with newspaper, then put something that the dog really likes in the can and leave the room. Only do this when you are around, do not trap all the trash cans and then go off to work for the day!

11. Growling Over the Food

The problem of dogs growling over their food is a common one because so many people feel that a dog is “entitled” to be food possessive. But in reality, growling over food can escalate to more severe problems. No dog should growl at a person over food. If you have several problems with your dog and growling over food is one of them, fixing this problem may go a long way toward clearing up the others as well. A wonderful solution to this problem is as follows:

Assuming that part of the reason the dog is growling is that it is guarding its resources, put down three bowls with the dog’s meal split between the three. Have something irrisistibly yummy at hand: Hotdogs, bits of chicken, liver, etc. Put all three bowls down, and as the dog is eating out of one bowl, pick another up, add some of the treats to it, and put it back down again. Keep this up until all the food is eaten. This way you are teaching the dog that people are not a threat to its food, which is as it should be.

In dealing with this problem, always think in terms of taking the food away from the dog and NOT in terms of taking the dog away from the food. In other words, if you try to push the dog away from his dish, you’ve potentially escalated the confrontation to a physical one; if you take the dish away, his attention is concentrated instead on the dish.

Let your dog barks for a good reason

Each and every time your dog barks, go out and see why the dog is barking. If your dog is barking for a good reason (such as a stranger in the yard), you should praise your dog and then tell it to be quiet. If the dog is barking because there is a squirrel up the tree, or something similar, tell the dog to be quiet and immediately go back into the house. You will have to repeat this every time the dog barks. Pretty soon, in a week or so depending on the dog, the dog will only bark for a good reason. The dog may still bark at the squirrel, but not continually. Instead, one or two good barks to scare the squirrel, and then it considers its duty done. At the same time, you have not dampened your dogs ability to bark when there is something wrong.

Dealing with complaints about barking

If your neighbors complain about your dog barking while you are not at home, first purchase a voice-activated tape recorder and set it up where your dog will trigger the tape if it barks. You may find that your neighbor is incorrect about how much your dog actually does bark. You should keep a log of the barking you record. You may find out what exactly causes it to bark. For example, hearing  a car drive by before each barking sequence. It can help you find some ideas for eliminating the behavior. But do determine that there is actually a problem before you try to do something about it.

If you know that you have a problem, you might enlist the help of your neighbors. Neighbors are often happy to help you with this problem! Have them squirt water at excessive barking, or rattle cans of pennies/rocks, etc.

In any event, take a neighbor’s complaint seriously, even if it is unwarranted. More neighbor disputes arise over barking dogs than anything else, and dogs have been injured or killed by neighbors desperate for a good nights sleep.There is some evidence that barking is an inherited trait: if the parents bark a lot, chances are their puppies will, too.

Teach your dog “Speak”

Often, one method that helps alleviate barking is to give your dog specific permission to bark. Teach it to “speak” — let it “speak” when appropriate (say, when you’re playing in the park). Then “no speak” follows from that. However, there is often a problem when the dog is alone. So you spent more time for palying with your dog.

Using anti-bark collars

There are collars, called anti-bark collars, available that are meant to help train your dog not to bark. Dogs will react differently, depending on how well they learn, train, and handle. The collars by themselves are not the solution to your dog’s barking. You must understand what the collar does, and you will have to know how to use the collar. Some are electronic and others are sonic. These can be quite effective if introduced properly. Ideally the dog should not understand that it is the collar giving the correction so that you can ultimately wean the dog off the collar. Read the instructions on the devices; the good ones will outline exactly how to train them.

There are two types, one will eliminate the barking — that is, they are triggered by any barking the dog does. Others are “diminishers”, they will kick in after one or two barks. There are a few that adjust to be one or the other. With diminisher collars, watch out for the dog learning to “pattern bark” — they’ve learned they can bark twice, pause, bark twice, etc. You will need to switch to an eliminator in this case. The best collars are triggered by throat vibration rather than noise; this helps avoid having your dog corrected when a nearby car backfires!

You should have a dog training plan. But don’t make a huge plan and have impractical goal. After all, you are not professional and your dog will not have a special work, such as police dog. I suggest you and your dog start lessons of 6 Days Mini Dog Training Course or 14 Day Basic Training. I will write these free Lessons in next few weeks.

Know more about your dog and find how long your dog can concentrate for. Don’t push the dog beyond his capability. Long time of training has no benefits for both of you and your dog. You should let your dog share the training happy time with you. Your dog will love training and never hate it. It is better to has 3-5 lessons per day and 5-10 minutes per lesson. During every break between 2 lessons, release your dog for a while, and then start fresh tricks. Think it about when you have to learn something new, it takes you more time, concentration and energy and it is no difficult for your canine friend.

All dogs need training, there is nothing worse than Rover jumping all over you or barking constantly. Once your dog knows who’s his boss and has respect, you will be happy for having a nice and well behaved dog.

You have to make your dog treadmill exercise step by step. You should stay with your dog, standing there and watching him carefully the whole time. The dogs have to be supervised every second. Make sure your dog is leashed and start really slow for your lovely puppy. It takes a lot of training to get your dog to be comfortable on running machine. Serious injury can occur. Please be careful.

And other tips that you must be pay attention:

1. Don’t let your dog drink a lot before or after his workout.
2. After one hour rest, then feed your dog.
3. Start with 3-5 minutes first walking session.
4. Don’t push speed suddenly, during your dog walking.

Anyway, your time would be better spent taking your dog for a walk by yourself. But don’t let your dog run on the treadmill instead of running your dog outside.